Let’s start with the sentence we’ve all heard at least once in our lives:
- Fish goes with white wine.
- Red wine goes with meat.

This is what we’re taught because fish is delicate, sometimes iodine-driven, and easily bullied by tannins, while white wine is fresh, light, and generally well-behaved.

But wine is not religion, personal preferences are the ones to be driven and, once you understand why rules exist, you’re officially allowed to apply your creativity.

Burgundy, the Gateway Red

If you want to start pairing red wine with fish without causing panic at the table, Burgundy is your safest playground.

Take Fiona Leroy Maranges Rouge 2022 with one of the most loved, made-to-be-shared Thai masterpieces: pla tod nam pla (deep-fried sea bass, crispy, salty, finished with fish sauce, lime, and fresh herbs). Sounds risky? It’s actually brilliant.

Maranges brings a touch more structure and savoury depth, but in Fiona Leroy’s hands it remains beautifully lifted and precise. The wine shows bright red fruit, subtle earthiness, and fresh acidity that follows the lime effortlessly, while the crunch and saltiness of the dish keep the tannins in check. Serve it slightly cooler than room temperature (around 12–14°C) and it suddenly be-haves almost like a white wine, just with more grip, more texture, and a bit more attitude. Otherwise, if you like it even more sharp, go for Fiona Leroy Hautes-Côtes de Beaune “Les Champs Rigets” 2022. Nothing clashes. Nothing shouts. Everyone looks pleasantly surprised.

Anchovies and Nebbiolo

Cantabrico anchovies with bagnetto verde, paired with Sandro Fay “Ca’ Morei” 2020 from Valtellina.

This pairing works because it’s regional, coherent, and balanced.

Bagnetto verde is a green sauce from Piedmont made with parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers, vine-gar, and olive oil. It’s salty, sharp, herbal, and absolutely not shy.

Cantabrico anchovies are among the best quality in the world; the cold water make them develop more fat, becoming juicy and tasty. At La Casa Nostra restaurant in Bangkok, they also serve them in another classic way, with grilled bread and tomato relish.

And guess what Nebbiolo loves? Acidity. Salt. Savoury flavours.

Ca’ Morei is an alpine Nebbiolo: elegant, lifted, not aggressive, a cult in the area and most respected nebbiolo out of Piedmont. The salt from the anchovies smooths the tannins, the herbs talk to the wine’s savoury side, and suddenly everything clicks.
Sometimes the best combinations are the ones that come from tradition, just not the obvious one.

Serious Bordeaux paired with serious Fish

Now for the pairing that really raises eyebrows. Château Cos d’Estournel 2015, Saint-Estèphe, Cabernet Sauvignon predominant blended with Merlot, paired with Pan Seared Snow Fish with Morel Mushroom Broth.

I was amazed by this course created by chef Sila at Beccheria (The Wine Merchant Silom). This perfectly worked because the dish was as serious as the wine.

Earthy mushrooms, rich sauce, firm fish texture and suddenly the power of the wine feels appro-priate, not excessive.

A real sommelier isn’t afraid to go creative with pairings, as well as a great chef isn’t afraid to push the level up.

Know the Rules, then use them Creatively

Just don’t do it blindly. Red wine with fish is not about being provocative for Instagram. It’s about understanding salt, tex-ture, acidity, tannins, and knowing when a wine should follow the dish instead of trying to domi-nate it.

The classic rule exists to protect you.

Knowledge is what allows you to (responsibly) ignore it. And that’s exactly what Know Your Drinks is about: not memorising rules, but learning when it’s safe (and delicious) to forget them.

Sometimes the best pairing is the one that makes everyone pause, enjoy the surpsire… and ask for another glass.

By Vittoria Dell’Anna