The illuminated sign that reads Ame ni mo makezu (Be not Defeated by the Rain) catches the attention as it winds down a little lane off of Oimatsu-dori. Because it was written by the owner-chef himself using charcoal-dipped chopsticks, the calligraphy has a character all its own. To go well with the sake, fare is cooked with a lot of fermented flavors. Malted rice is used to marinate grilled fish, and rice-bran bread is used to decorate chicken liver.